Get The Look
Lead makeup artist, Buffy Hernandez, takes you from start to finish on her look for New York Fashion Week. Now you can master it.
I always apply foundation first. There’s no rule of thumb but I like to see a clean palette. Here, I used a liquid foundation and applied it towards the center of the face, starting with the forehead, nose, and chin. The key is to keep your foundation looking as close to your skin as possible, very sheer and light. Some people prefer powder foundation but I wanted a less matte look and more dewy effect. When you use a powder foundation, you sometimes see the powder itself. It’s all about textures. As for application, it’s personal preference. Whether I start with a sponge or brush, my fingers are touching the face to blend at some point.
TIP: I brushed a little bronzer on the neck. We don’t get sun at our neck because our chin protects it so this adds warmth. It’s a preconceived notion that you should apply foundation from the forehead to the face to the neck. Foundation really shouldn’t be applied to the neck. It should match your decollete. Take a drop and blend it right in.
Your concealer should be one shade above your foundation. I used minimal concealer, only where there was darkness under the eyes and at the inner corner. We have a natural shadowing and a vein at the inner corner of our eye that can be brightened with concealer. Most women apply concealer under their entire eye to the outer corner. I get a lot of complaints about concealer creasing but it’s because it’s been applied all the way out.
3. SETTING POWDER
Your setting powder depends on the type of foundation finish. I applied setting powder at the t-zone--forehead, nose, and chin. Apply it with a powder puff, instead of a brush. When you use a powder puff, you’re binding the foundation and powder because you’re pressing, whereas a brush just dusts it on.
I used a warm bronzer as blush. A cooler bronzer with earthy, tan tones is best for contouring because it gives your cheekbones more depth. Cool tones create more of a shadow which is why your cheekbones pop out. A brighter bronzer under the cheekbone won’t pull them out visually which is what I was going for. Because I used it as blush, I applied it to the cheekbones, blending up to the temples.
TIP: When applying it, I don’t start exactly at the apples. Instead, I place my finger at the apple of the cheek and start behind it. Visually, this elongates and lifts.
I started with a neutral eyeshadow base so that the eyeshadow will last longer and create a smooth, clean palette for the eyes. It also takes away and discoloration or darkness from the lid. I followed with a warm tone eyeshadow that tied in the bronzer and lip color. Don’t sweep your eyeshadow across, actually press the product into the lid. I want more color deposited whereas sweeping creates color wash, not true color.
Start at the lash line and fade it out as you get to the brow line so shadow is all over the lid.
6. LIQUID LINER
I applied a black liquid liner as close as possible to the lash line so it stayed very thin, as if writing right on top of them.
TIP: The key to liner is to draw little dashes and connect them as opposed to drawing one straight line. If you do dashes, it’ll be straighter and more controlled as opposed to getting it into one single swoosh.
TIP: I brush a spoolie through the powder, tap it so excess powder falls, then brush through brows because it gives it a softer, natural fill. Taking the actual brush part and filling in the brow can get too heavy.
Set brows with a little bit of translucent powder. It helps the look stay longer and mutes it so it’s not too harsh.
The liner has had time to dry so now I apply a coat of mascara down on top of the lashes, then up, coating both sides. This gives me more texture to play with. When brushing up, I wiggle the brush at the base and push up so the lash is lifted and I can get as much fullness and volume as I want.
Lip pencils can sometimes be severe so I used the lipstick as my liner. I took the tip of the sharp side of the lipstick and lined the lip, then spun it around and filled in the lip with the rounder side. The color we used on every model was Sangria lipstick, a moisturizing lipstick with a rich look.